If you've ever tried to surf Millers in a small east swell on spring high tide you'll know exactly what I mean. Have to pump your board to death to even get it to move along the wave, let alone try generate some speed.
An east swell is soooo deceptive on the high - looks good from far, but far from good (other than if you're at Pipe). Lines roll in from behind Chomp Rock - which on any normal day would turn into decent shoulder high peaks along the point. But nah, the east swell mirage gets you for a fool each time. That same swell line that went over chomp only breaks when it's like 5m from the beach. Frustration.
But, it could be worse. You could be out there on your the virgin surf of your brand new board. Couldn't think of less auspicious conditions for a new boards first surf - but Craig Cuff reckoned it was worth a shot! He'd just taken delivery of THREE brand new boards. Just when I thought he'd won the lotto - turns out they were part of his prize from Zag - remember he won the new subscriber award. Not only boards, but a trip to Indo nogal.
Despite the kak conditions he ripped his new 6'0. Maybe the cool "silver surfer" spray job has something to do with it. Does the "silver surfer" have anything to do with his grey hair? Craig - tell us the story....
Had some mate's visiting us over the weekend who're from Aus. Met them on one of our Maldives boat trips. Got given such a cool gift - a Quik peak signed by Kelly Slater, Tom Curren, Martin Potter and Mick Fanning - he got it whilst at the Snapper ASP event. Sweet! Hoping some of their magic rubs off if I wear it!
Speaking of Kelly, he grew up surfer kakker waves than PE, yet went on to became a multiple world champ - so come on groms, no excuses - east swell or not. He's still the best surfer in the world despite heading towards baalie -hood. He's entitled to blitz ou's half his age in heats.
The Foot and Wayne Monk did the same this weekend, 2 older ou's who took 1st n 2nd in the SA Champs this weekend. No disrespect to the level of their surfing, but not sure what it says about the standard of our surfing right now if guys over the age of 35 are walking away with the title? C'mon lighties, step up!
Well done to the E.P team for getting a credible 3rd (outta 8 sides), specially to Nick who took out the u20's, followed by Steve and Dylan. Congrats also to Faye and Emma for their 3rd n 4th slots in the u20 girls.