MillersLocal
  • Home
  • Latest Shots
  • Blog
  • Comp news
  • Surf Report
  • SurfGuide
  • PHOTOS
  • Vintage
  • Enviro
  • Shop

Blog

Why it's still fun to surf when it's flat

5/24/2011

 
Picture
Yesterday was officially flat. The waves at Millers were barely reaching shin high. It was 5pm. I'd made the mistake of taking John's word that sunset was after 5.30pm and you could surf til 5.45pm. I was desperate. Long day stuck behind the computer without so much as moving a muscle.

Days like those you need salt water through your gills to start your brain firing again. Shake out the numb arms from 10 straight hours of mouse moving. Nothing like consistent computer work to give you all sorts of exciting repetitive strain type neural afflictions. Kiff when your fingers have gone numb....not.

No amount of staring out the window seemed to be miraculously lifting the swell into something ridable. so much for that. Nonetheless, brain oozing out of ears needed some form of repair, and salt water it was.

By the time I ran onto the sand at Millers the sun was already just about to drop behind the horizon, so much for John's 5.30 sunset, more like 5.10! But the shadows it cast on the sand as I ran up the point were pretty cool. I got out to the backline with about 4 minutes to spare, and saw a really cool sunset. Always better when viewed from the water. 

Nother cool thing happens when you out there after sunset, you're suddenly part of the evening food chain. All of a sudden little fish are popping up all around you, and somethimes not so little one's. Gets the heart racing nicely when something largish surfaces a coupla feet away. Even better when you see something significantly more than large, and possibly with teeth, leap out the water at Chomp Rock. Quick calculation takes place to see how long you reckon it'd take to get to where you're at and if you should paddle in. Hmm, probably a half a minute max. Not worth scurrying in. If it wants to nibble on you it will. Rule no1 tends to be what you see doesn't bite you, generally...

I managed to stand on exactly 2 "waves", one a shin high racer that I managed to pump along for about 30m, another about knee high that I could squeeze out a top turn and closeout maneuverer on. So there, if you stand it counts as a surf. I stood therefore I surfed.

Got out after only being in for 15 minutes cos it was getting too dark and I was a bit spooked by the large toothy looking fish that's leaped out at Chomp Rock. But damn, did I feel a million times better. That's why we surf, it makes us feel good.

So it doesn't matter if it looks flat, chances are you'll at least be able to stand up on something if you sit out there long enough. Just lower your standards! Plus water through your gills is a guaranteed happy pill, waves or no waves.

Remember, all it takes is a wave a day to keep ya happy....

Comments are closed.
    Picture
    LATEST POSTS
    More posts HERE

    Author

    Millerslocal

    RSS Feed

    Archives

    July 2021
    June 2021
    May 2021
    April 2021
    March 2021
    February 2021
    August 2020
    July 2020
    May 2020
    April 2020
    March 2020
    February 2020
    December 2019
    November 2019
    October 2019
    September 2019
    August 2019
    July 2019
    June 2019
    May 2019
    April 2019
    March 2019
    February 2019
    December 2018
    November 2018
    October 2018
    September 2018
    August 2018
    July 2018
    June 2018
    May 2018
    April 2018
    March 2018
    February 2018
    January 2018
    December 2017
    November 2017
    October 2017
    September 2017
    August 2017
    July 2017
    June 2017
    May 2017
    April 2017
    March 2017
    February 2017
    January 2017
    December 2016
    November 2016
    October 2016
    September 2016
    August 2016
    July 2016
    June 2016
    May 2016
    April 2016
    March 2016
    February 2016
    January 2016
    December 2015
    November 2015
    October 2015
    September 2015
    August 2015
    July 2015
    June 2015
    May 2015
    April 2015
    March 2015
    February 2015
    January 2015
    December 2014
    November 2014
    October 2014
    September 2014
    August 2014
    July 2014
    June 2014
    May 2014
    April 2014
    March 2014
    February 2014
    January 2014
    December 2013
    November 2013
    October 2013
    September 2013
    August 2013
    July 2013
    June 2013
    May 2013
    April 2013
    March 2013
    February 2013
    January 2013
    December 2012
    November 2012
    October 2012
    September 2012
    August 2012
    July 2012
    June 2012
    May 2012
    April 2012
    March 2012
    February 2012
    January 2012
    December 2011
    November 2011
    October 2011
    September 2011
    August 2011
    July 2011
    June 2011
    May 2011
    April 2011
    March 2011
    February 2011
    January 2011
    December 2010
    November 2010

Powered by Create your own unique website with customizable templates.
  • Home
  • Latest Shots
  • Blog
  • Comp news
  • Surf Report
  • SurfGuide
  • PHOTOS
  • Vintage
  • Enviro
  • Shop