Jeepers, what a week. I never thought I'd be happy to see the swell drop off and the wind go onshore - but by this afternoon I was ready for a break. We've had pretty damn decent waves since Friday last week, so that's 6 days straight days of surfing for those of you lucky enough to have bunked work, taken sickies or just gone AWOL.
The ou's that missioned through to JBay this week scored massive, with reports of stomping waves and hardly anyone in the water. Brownie and Jorg reckon they had max 7 ou's in the water with them during their respective sessions. And we're talking overhead, good as it gets JBay here....
Not to be outdone, the bay also had it's share. Although it was a little flukey at times, with some days just having sweet spots for an hour here and there - you had to be in the right place at the right time to score.
Yesterday was a great example of that. In the water at 07h00 - the only surfer with 3 paddleskiers. Lucky me! Actually, they were all bloody well mannered - I'll give em credit for that. Thanks to Kenny (Miller's resident paddleskier) for ensuring the Millers line-up rules were observed by his mates!
The surf was one and a half overhead and sheet glass. Total perfection, not a drop of water out of place. Got 4 waves down past 2nd avenue. But perfection can be a fickle bitch - just 45 minutes later the devil NW wind came up and spoilt the party. Turning the line-up into mush by 08h00. Someone also flipped the swell switch to off, as it just dropped by half in an instant.
Today was much the same, the early birds got the worm at Clubhouse this morning. Some solid sets in about the double overhead range coming through. But also just fleetingly - by mid-morning it'd gone off the boil completely.
Reckon everyone's super stoked to have got in the water with some decent surf at last. Life returns to normal tomorrow with the east back til next Monday, so the kids will go back to school, the ou's back to work, and the students back to their lectures. Works piled up plenty whilst we surfed ourselves stukkend this week, but it's worth the mission of playing catch up....don't you skeem?
Rule no. 1 about being a surfer in PE - you gotto put your life on hold whilst there's waves, cos they're few and far between....