Things we say...

I don't reckon surfers are generally superstitious people, but there are certainly a few things we say and do that can really hoodoo a surf....

#1 "I'm just gonna get a last wave in..."

Guaranteed to go totally flat for the next 20 minutes, whilst you sit there pondering on why you didn't get in on your previous wave. Most of the time your last wave in will be kak, cos you grow tired of waiting for the ocean to send you something, and you end up going on a marginal lump. This is normally followed by...

#2 As you set foot on the sand & turn round to check the line-up a kiff set rolls through

And you're left feeling cheated. Cos if you'd just waited that extra minute....Well done, you have been the official surf sacrifice of the day. Everyone gets a turn at this, so just shake your head and drag your feet back to the car.

Greg Noll © John Severson

#3 "Ysss, it's such lekker waves, I wonder where the crowds are?"

Never, ever, EVER say this whilst you're sitting out there enjoying an uncrowded session on a lekker day. Cos guaranteed within a few minutes 3 longboarders will appear on the deck, 4 groms will walk down the beach, and another few guys will come over the dunes.  2 peeps tp 20- in the blink of an eye. Repeat - never say the "c" word unless you want your peaceful session to go pear-shaped quick time. Informal rule is if you say it you owe the line-up 20 push-ups for every peep who paddles out after you've sworn!

Huntington Beach. Light crowd.

#4 "You take this one, I'm gonna get one behind..."

It looks like your stars are aligning. A set pulls through and you're at the head of the line-up queue. First choice is yours. Wave number 1 looks OK, but yoh, that one behind it looks like a smoker. So you generously give up the first wave of the set....only to discover the 2nd one was a ghost, or it peaks further out that you anticipated and you collect it on the head...

Pipe peaking on 3rd reef © Sean Davey

#5 Whenever you get a new board, the surf goes flat for 2 weeks

Got your paws on the new stick, smelling that fresh fibreglass, rubbed on the wax, ready to roc, frothing to try it out and see how she goes. Keep frothing, cos you ain't gonna get a wave to try it out on. Welcome to the "new board no waves" curse. Afflicts most owners of new custom boards. Do shapers have a sarcastic streak, & check the swell charts to make sure you get your sled right bang on as a flat onshore spell hits?