Coupla fun days of waves last week. Started off slow but Thursday & Friday saw things pick up nicely. Lots more swell up towards Rincon and Pipe area cos the swell direction had a fair bit of west in it, which meant it didn't bend round the Avo's point as much.
Wind was a bit enthusiastic at times, but thankfully backed off in the evening so that the chop-factor eased up. Water temps were a bit challenging on occasion, with what felt like patches of 14C water lurking about.
Crystal clear water on Friday, coupled with glassy conditions made it feel like you were surfing in an aquarium, hard to see where the bend of the wave actually was - just seeing straight through it to the reef below. Lots of cool feeshies about to check out during the long lulls. Even some colourful tropical looking one's in amongst the guppies and mullets.
A few bluebottles floating around, got nabbed by one. More annoying than painful. A lil crab swam about the line-up sussing us out, and then paddled past what I thought was a box jelly fish, oh wait, it's a condom. Not sure which would be worse! Even a bottle of vodka floated past, that Ken the paddleskier took a pseudo-swig of.
Bits of red tide about again, not large patches, but very thick within the patch itself. Combo of maybe some sewerage outfall from the boggered up pumpstation near Something Good, the warm water and calm conditions. Smells pretty gross when you paddle through it. Spit don't swallow for sure.
Some misty conditions over the weekend - obviously a cold current offshore, mixing with the hot & humid air temps. Groms had their 2nd trail at Pipe, and weren't put off by the fact that they couldn't see much. Hard to dampen grom froth.
Quite a few finned friends around again over the weekend, with the guys at Pipe spotting one, although seems like it was just a raggie. Chap at Dunes in CT got bumped by one in the line-up. Hard to have to give way to the locals when the waves are doing this...
Ex-PE local Ryan McSkimming has moved a bit north of the bay. OK, a lot north. And currently resides far up the west coast of Africa - where he gets call this lekker looking left point his local. The 20 second swell that hit us also made it's way up north to Ryan's possie. Looks like he'd have had some screamers...
Hawaii always prides itself on being bigger and better - and their 20 second swell was certainly a lot more impressive than ours. And so were the beatings it dished out. Lots of shots doing the rounds showing guys free-falling out the sky on watery behemoths. Amazing one can survive that!?
Hectic week for St Francis area. Serious wildfires threatened both villages for many days, with flames being fueled by high winds and searing temperatures. An incredible job by the local community meant that no homes were lost in either SF or CSF, although a few burnt down on the wildside.
Many of the local surfers got stuck in to help keeping the town safe, putting in long hours and breathing in plenty of smoke in order to keep houses from burning. Good effort ou's!
Friday evening was PE's local surf mag, The Boardtalks, draw for the Sony Action cam and other cool stuff. Guys won some cool prizes, ate some lekker chow and had a good time at the Boardroom. Remember to get your entries in for the next draw. Entry forms available in The Boardtalk mag.
The PE harbour had an over-sized visitor during the week, with the Queen Elizabeth popping in to say Howzit en route to Reunion. Woulda been a good trip to stow away on and hook a lil surf at St Leu. Provided you didn't mind the potential attentions of finned friends. The island is still battling with toothy locals patrolling most of the lineups.
So that was it for the week. Drama's, waves and wind. Here's hoping this week just brings waves, minus the wind and drama!