MillersLocal
  • Home
  • Latest Shots
  • Blog
  • Comp news
  • Surf Report
  • SurfGuide
  • PHOTOS
  • Vintage
  • Enviro
  • Shop

Blog

The evil "Last Wave In" syndrome

5/11/2011

 
Picture
Hard to get that last wave in when it looks like this....
C'mon, you've all experienced right? Whether you have to get out the water to get to work, or cos your mom's now the moering with you and about to drive off and leave you behind, or cos it's getting dark or cos the conditions have gone to crud....we've all been stuck out there waiting for that last wave in.

And yrrr, sometimes it just refuses to come. How often don't you hook a pretty good wave - which you should make your last wave in, but because it was so fun our "just one more" voice wins the day and we paddle back out for another.

But boy, do you then get punished for that decision. Properly.

The wave that'll propel you homeward just refuses to arrive. You stare at the horizon, but nothing. Or maybe something does pop up, but then it's not your turn cos you're the end of the queue, having just paddled back out from your last wave. 

Often you'd already decided you should be getting in cos the conditions are deteriorating so much - which is why now in retrospect you kick yourself for not making that last wave your real last wave. It's hard to get a last wave in if there're now no waves. 

But you can't paddle in. It's against the rules. Absolutely. Totally. If you paddle in you will get punished. Neptune will look up at you and go "Traitor", and pencil your name onto his seaweed notepad. For that unforgivable transgression you'll be cursed with cutting your foot on a rock on your way out, getting to your car to find someone's broken into it, having your board blow off the roof on your way back home...and then get home to discover your dog, cat, girlfriend, wife,or budgie has left you. Yes, Neptune gets the moering if you show such disrespect, and his reach is far and wide.

Your next surf will be dogged by rail catches, getting sucked over the falls, landing on your fins and generally having a totally kak session. Payback time by the man with the spiky garden fork.

So never, ever, paddle in cos you get tired of waiting for that last wave in. Sit there, even if it takes 40 minutes, or it's gone dark. It's OK, sharks can't see you in the dark. The fact that you can't see the approaching set is another issue all together. Then it lands on your head and you get washed in. But at least you didn't paddle in. 

Tough it out, that's part of the game, part of the price you have to pay to be called a surfer. You paddle in, what are you then, a paddler?

Comments are closed.
    Picture
    LATEST POSTS
    More posts HERE

    Author

    Millerslocal

    RSS Feed

    Archives

    July 2021
    June 2021
    May 2021
    April 2021
    March 2021
    February 2021
    August 2020
    July 2020
    May 2020
    April 2020
    March 2020
    February 2020
    December 2019
    November 2019
    October 2019
    September 2019
    August 2019
    July 2019
    June 2019
    May 2019
    April 2019
    March 2019
    February 2019
    December 2018
    November 2018
    October 2018
    September 2018
    August 2018
    July 2018
    June 2018
    May 2018
    April 2018
    March 2018
    February 2018
    January 2018
    December 2017
    November 2017
    October 2017
    September 2017
    August 2017
    July 2017
    June 2017
    May 2017
    April 2017
    March 2017
    February 2017
    January 2017
    December 2016
    November 2016
    October 2016
    September 2016
    August 2016
    July 2016
    June 2016
    May 2016
    April 2016
    March 2016
    February 2016
    January 2016
    December 2015
    November 2015
    October 2015
    September 2015
    August 2015
    July 2015
    June 2015
    May 2015
    April 2015
    March 2015
    February 2015
    January 2015
    December 2014
    November 2014
    October 2014
    September 2014
    August 2014
    July 2014
    June 2014
    May 2014
    April 2014
    March 2014
    February 2014
    January 2014
    December 2013
    November 2013
    October 2013
    September 2013
    August 2013
    July 2013
    June 2013
    May 2013
    April 2013
    March 2013
    February 2013
    January 2013
    December 2012
    November 2012
    October 2012
    September 2012
    August 2012
    July 2012
    June 2012
    May 2012
    April 2012
    March 2012
    February 2012
    January 2012
    December 2011
    November 2011
    October 2011
    September 2011
    August 2011
    July 2011
    June 2011
    May 2011
    April 2011
    March 2011
    February 2011
    January 2011
    December 2010
    November 2010

Picture
SURF GUIDE
Shit you should know
​Surf safe

Da rules
Gear Guide
​
SURF STUFF
The Boardroom
Greg Smith boards
​Surf Centre
DEETS
Contact us
​Terms & conditions
  • Home
  • Latest Shots
  • Blog
  • Comp news
  • Surf Report
  • SurfGuide
  • PHOTOS
  • Vintage
  • Enviro
  • Shop