Yrr, the wave machine hasn't just switched off....she be broken. And there we all got lekker suckered into thinking this would be a winter of great surf, after getting a run of solid swell for 2 weeks in June. Worse still, these days when a swell arrives it usually has stonking galeforce offshores to accompany it...making it chop hop city.
Damn, we deserve a good winter. I reckon we haven't had a proper one in about 6 years almost. Back then the winter surf used to be ultra consistent, with at least 4-5 surfable days a week. None of these weird long flat spells or crazy east winds blowing days to weeks on end. Gone are the regular 4-6ft days, anyone know where to find them?
Let's hope we get outta this weather cycle soon, cos it's hard to endure the small, onshore summer....when you've just come out of a small, onshore winter!
Still, sometimes small surf can be fun. Take yesterday for example. Hardly looked like it had a wave, but then spotted John out in the water. Now as we all know, to get John out the car park and into the surf normally takes a while - so I immediately made the assumption he must have seen something to be out in the water.
As I arrived I saw John paddling off towards Suicides...huh? Turns out he'd had a coupla lil waves but was now cold and was paddling back to Denvils to go back to work. Pretty hefty paddle that I must say. Reason I'd seen in the water was he hadn't actually intended to surf, but was just doing a paddle up the beach for some exercise. He then discovered a few small one's coming through on the inside, and decided to hang about and catch a few.
So I'd bolted across there on false pretenses...but ended up having a fun lil session in grom sized waves. Nothing to complain about when you're on your ace, so can get every "set" that comes through. And hey, if the "sets" are chest high and zipping along the full length of the beach...then what's the problem!?
Got to see a pretty interesting work ethic demonstration by one of our local municipal workers whilst I was sitting bobbing about out there. In the 1hr45 that I was in the water - the ou moved a total of 20m!! First he sat on the bench for an hour. Then that got boring, so he got up, walked 10m, and sat down on the grass - aaah, this was better. Sat there for 30 min. Then musta decided that breathing didn't count as work, so got up, moved another 10m, picked up a spade that'd been lying in the flowerbed, and leaned on that....just leaned, mind you - definitely no attempt at digging or something equally strenuous....
Ah, the tough life of government employment....