Life's a beach II

Ever had that helpless feeling when you watch super fun waves peeling off in front of you, and no matter how much your mind still wants to surf your body says take a hike?? After a slow start the first few days of our trip, the swell picked up on the weekend.

Put in 4 sessions on Saturday, and 2 long one's on Sunday. Arm's have gone on strike, rash vest has created rashes, ribs are rubbed raw, ears are waterlogged, eyes are bloodshot, legs are burnt. Damn, don't you love surfing!?

Really fun waves, mostly shoulder high, with a few head to one and a half overhead sets thrown in to keep you on your toes. Wind hasn't been as perfect as it can be, neither has the weather. But if you can bank 6-8 hours surfing a day you're not complaining.

Parked off in a kiff lil anchorage near the break....which means you terrorise yourself even waking minute you're sitting on the boat and not out in the water as you're seeing fun waves going unridden. But when you're stuffed you're stuffed.

"Thankfully" the swell drops off over the next few days before the next pulse pulls in, so will have a chance to rest up. We'll probably up anchor and mission off to another atoll for a coupla days, try out some other spots. 

Heard that the bay back home has been pretty quiet wave-wise since I left....hope the charts start smiling on you guys soon. Usually when we have a long lull like this it means mother ocean is brewing something scary which she'll unleash fairly soon! Here's holding thumbs...