I don't reckon surfers are generally superstitious people, but there are certainly a few things we say and do that can really hoodoo a surf.... #1 "I'm just gonna get a last wave in..." Guaranteed to go totally flat for the next 20 minutes, whilst you sit there pondering on why you didn't get in on your previous wave. Most of the time your last wave in will be kak, cos you grow tired of waiting for the ocean to send you something, and you end up going on a marginal lump. This is normally followed by... #2 As you set foot on the sand & turn round to check the line-up a kiff set rolls through And you're left feeling cheated. Cos if you'd just waited that extra minute....Well done, you have been the official surf sacrifice of the day. Everyone gets a turn at this, so just shake your head and drag your feet back to the car. #3 "Ysss, it's such lekker waves, I wonder where the crowds are?" Never, ever, EVER say this whilst you're sitting out there enjoying an uncrowded session on a lekker day. Cos guaranteed within a few minutes 3 longboarders will appear on the deck, 4 groms will walk down the beach, and another few guys will come over the dunes. 2 peeps tp 20- in the blink of an eye. Repeat - never say the "c" word unless you want your peaceful session to go pear-shaped quick time. Informal rule is if you say it you owe the line-up 20 push-ups for every peep who paddles out after you've sworn! #4 "You take this one, I'm gonna get one behind..." It looks like your stars are aligning. A set pulls through and you're at the head of the line-up queue. First choice is yours. Wave number 1 looks OK, but yoh, that one behind it looks like a smoker. So you generously give up the first wave of the set....only to discover the 2nd one was a ghost, or it peaks further out that you anticipated and you collect it on the head... #5 Whenever you get a new board, the surf goes flat for 2 weeks
Got your paws on the new stick, smelling that fresh fibreglass, rubbed on the wax, ready to roc, frothing to try it out and see how she goes. Keep frothing, cos you ain't gonna get a wave to try it out on. Welcome to the "new board no waves" curse. Afflicts most owners of new custom boards. Do shapers have a sarcastic streak, & check the swell charts to make sure you get your sled right bang on as a flat onshore spell hits? September might not officially be winter - but it often behaves like it. Traditionally PE has been blessed with at least one absolutely gangbuster swell every September. Sometimes they're so gangbuster that they wash into the car park at Clubhouse, and have even washed away bit of the Summerstrand Lifesaving Club & the wall at Millers before. Avo's got so gnarly it washed Bruce Campbell over the jump rock, guys bunked school to catch the cooking days, Millers barreled, Pier barreled, Hummies barrled, ou's towed into massive Clubhouse on jetski's. Yah.... September is a good month! Are we in for one this year? Who knows?! But let's hope so. Went through the archives and pulled out some shots from September's gone by. Plenty from Avo's, Pier and Hummies. Such a pity all the sand's disappeared and those spots hardly work anymore. Shots from Luc Hosten, Dirk Erasmus, Nick Cadle, Stan Blumberg, Frikkie Greybe & ML. There're a bunch in here - so make sure you scroll along that set of thumbnails at the bottom to slide it across, else just sit back and watch the slideshow. And dream..... As surfers we put ourselves at risk of getting skin cancer every time we head out for a wave. Sitting out there in the line-up day after day, year after year, with those UV rays just beating down on us. Accident waiting to happen really. I got reminded what a real threat it was after chatting to Mauro Poggi out in the surf this week. Hadn't seen him for a while, and he said "Hey, did you hear what happened to me?!" No, I didn't, so tell me the story..... "I'd gone for a swim at Humewood with my son a few weeks back, and as we were getting out the water he said to me "Dad, what's that on your back", prodding at a mole on my back. I said it was just a mossie, nothing to worry about. Anyway, he wasn't so easily dismissed - luckily for me it turns out. After some googling him and my wife decided I had to go see the Doc about the mole. The Doc didn't seem to perturbed about it either, but sent it off for some tests nonetheless. Came back as stage 2 malignant melonoma! So back off to the doc to get a 6cm x 3cm piece cut out of my shoulder. They then cut out the lymph-glands under my arm as well. It was that that nearly killed me! Ended up going septic - I felt like I was going to die it was so sore. They had to stick a drain in it to release all the gunk. So yah, I'm really lucky to have caught it before it spread even more - as apparently once it does start to spread you're pretty much tickets" Just as the famous surf saying goes "You never know if you don't go" - well, let that apply to looking after your skin as well! All surfers should do an annual visit to their Dermatologist just to make sure all those lil mossies and moles are behaving themselves and the sun hasn't switched on any misbehaving cells. Cos rather be safe than sorry. And that includes lathering on that sunscreen and maybe chucking on a shirt and a cap or hat when you hit the surf. Go make that appointment now..... A word on sunscreens - go for a high factor SPF and make sure it's water resistant (duh!) Good stuff available locally is Bronzinc (SPF 30+, skin colour zinc, get at Surf Centre or the Boardroom), Swox (SPF 30+, clear zinc, goes on white then dissolves -made by surfers for surfers - I did a review on it here) , Solrx (SPF 40+, clear zinc goes on white and dissolves, lasts 8 hours - my regular sunscreen. Made in Knysna. Get it at RVCA stores or order online) and Island Tribe (various SPF's, made in Durbs, available everywhere)
Put it ON!!!!!!! EVERY time you surf. UV rays are still out there even when it's cloudy! Sea urchins are the ocean's pincushions; strange, spiny creatures that inhabit the sea floor.....just waiting for your unsuspecting foot to come along and stand on them. Sea urchin 1. Foot 0. They seem to be flourishing at Seals right now, judging by the number of pic's posted on social media lately of spike infested feet. They lurk in crevices between the rocks, so the obvious advice would be to tread on top of the rocks not between them. Unfortunately one doesn't always get the luxury of choice when coming in at Seals. So, you make the mistake of sticking your foot where it shouldn't go, and your prize is few spines in the sole. So now what? Here's a quick run down of what to do post critter attack: Try yank the suckers out. Easier said than done cos they often just break off in the tweezer, so be gentle. You may even have to cut the skin open slightly to allow you to dig a bit further in to get a grip on them. Cos trust me, rather out than in. Just remember to disinfect the tweezers and the scissors first. Cos last time you used the tweezers they were up your nose... Leaving any foreign object under the skin, regardless of whether it is poisonous or not, is gonna give you grief - cos firstly they bloody sore to put pressure on, and they also stand the chance of getting infected. Double whammy bad. K, so you've got em out as best you can - but there're still some buried in there to deep to get out... Go to the kitchen, grab the white vinegar, stick it in a foot-sized bowl and heat it in the microwave until it is hot (but not so hot you gonna burn yourself). Because of the properties of sea urchin spines, the spines dissolve in vinegar. Vinegar is also a natural antiseptic. So double thumbs up for the essential slap chip condiment. Submerge your foot in the vinegar and leave it in the there until the vinegar is no longer warm. This will help to dissolve any urchin spine remnants that are not visible to the naked eye, and even help lift spine pieces to the surface of the skin. You're not done yet... After soaking in hot vinegar, soak the area in hot water. The water, like the vinegar, should be hot but not hot enough to burn the skin. Keep ya foot in there for about 20 minutes, or until the water is no longer hot. The hot water help reduce the inflammation and soreness, as well as hopefully killing any remaining bacteria that the vinegar didn't nuke. Wanna get the noddy badge for first aid treatment?
Before you go to bed, soak a clean towel in warm vinegar and wrap it round your foot. Use a bit of duct tape to strap it in place. Now put a plastic bag over the whole foot and tape it closed round the top of your ankle. This will keep the dampness of the vinegar soaked cloth contained. Leave it on overnight. Speed is your friend in this whole process - the quicker you get the spines out using your tweezers and the vinegar, the less chance you have of an infection developing. So keep a beady eye open for the sea floor porcupines, cos it's blerrie sore when you stand on them lil bastards. A while ago we took a look at the weird sh*t that surfers get, and it included a bit about Surfer’s Ear. Turns out quite a few local surfers have had their ears drilled. Local goofy-footer Etienne Potgieter is the latest unlucky recipient of what is the ear’s equivalent of root canal.
Sticks a few guidewires in the canal to hold it open. Then he pops a scope in there, and looking through that chips and chisels away at the lumps using a mini-drill. Takes a good coupla hours. Was it eina? You come out of theatre with a wad of gauze stuck in your ear, over which is the equivalent of an eye patch, and that’s strapped on with a bandage around your head. The first coupla days are sore – but not as bad as I imagined. They give you some pretty strong painkillers to start with.
Am assuming it’s not something you’d recommend as a fun thing to do! Did your doc give you any advice about preventing a recurrence? He told me to use prestik in my ear for the first week back in the water – but after that said I didn’t have to do anything. He felt long term use of prestik or ear plugs was just as much of an irritation to the ear canal as the water going in and out. I do carry around a few bottles of Aqua-ear these days – and pop a few drops in after my surfs. It just helps evaporate any water that may get stuck in there, as well as having an anti-bacterial component. And long term prognosis? It really differs from person to person. Some people are lucky enough not to get it recurring, but others get it back again within a few years. Which just means you have to have the op again. A word of warning Don’t leave it too late! If the lumps have grown across the ear canal to the point where the doc can’t see the ear drum through the gap anymore, then he can’t operate. And then you’re screwed. So if you’re struggling with continuous ear infections, or battle with water getting stuck in your ear all the time – go get it checked out sooner rather than later. Better to keep your ears happy rather than facing a date with the drill. Wanna check out what other weird sh*t surfers get? Have a look here.
A good week of swell last week - but the usual wind issues plagued the bay. Reckon one of these chop reduction systems that windsurfer legend Bjorn Dunkerbeck designed with his Red Bull team could work pretty well here! Any local engineers out there wanna give it a go!? Would definitely give us plenty more surfable days, and gotto be cheaper than building a wave park? The comps held over the weekend had to do some wildside missioning to find waves, and that they did. Both the CYOH Surf Off and the Billabong EP Trials found some decent surf - despite the weather being pretty damn nippy. Nothing that a few fires can't help though. Most wildside surfs have the locals dropping in on you, and this weekend was no different. Not wanting to feel left outta the comp, one lil guy boosted a big air - which saw him get the first perfect 10 of the comp. The JBU Supertrial was held on Thursday - and local JBay lightie Dylan Lightfoot took top honours - and with it a wildcard slot into the main event of the JBay Open. Here's hoping he can smoke a few top seeds! With the wind playing havoc with conditions in the bay plenty of guys have been making the missions west to catch some surf without the chop. Big Dave reports that ou's keep on dropping in behind him! Photographic evidence suggests the ballie has been ripping on his new "shortboard" despite having to share the odd wave. As long as you went west you could escape the wind - didn't even have to be as far as JBay. Not only did you get rewarded by fun surf, the water was like an aquarium. Meant you could smile for the camera underwater... Reports of plenty whales along the wildside at the moment. Seems a bit out of season for them to be there now - but always a good sign to have them about - means our sea's are still fairly healthy. Unfortunately one washed up along the Sacramento trail - so better not to surf anywhere nearby, as there're be a few toothy friends in the vicinity. Luckily the "Whale Demolition Squad" is on it - so hopefully pecked away soon. Let's help out local surfers Bruce Campbell and Tracey Admiral - support their fund raiser to raise some money to get them to the ITU Cross-Triathlon World Champs in Zittau Germany. Some of the Eastern Capes best artists will be performing: Wayne Kallis /Cotton Fields / Alan Kozak and Claire Ven, cash bar available, borrie rolls for sale, a raffle and lots of fun. Tickets will be R80 each and all you need to do is deposit the money into the account below and send proof of payment to traceyalmirall@gmail.com. Tickets will also be sold at the door.
If you can't make the event you can still make a donation, cos every lil bit helps! Event details: Date: Friday the 27th of June 2014 Time: 8pm Venue: Summerstrand Lifesaving Club Banking details: Account holder: Terry Almirall First National Bank Account Number : 62279975612 Branch Code: 211417 https://www.facebook.com/events/734230643307519/735299679867282/ Everyone wipes out. There's as many ways to wipe as there are to surf. Variety is the spice of life, and beatings come in all flavours. You can launch yourself over the falls and get drilled by the lip, land upside down and get a bit of ocean shot through your sinuses or do the full washing machine rinse and spin cycle. Like it or not, if you surf, you will wipeout. The degree of spectacular-ness is up to you. Wanna grab your sack? Now's a good time. Or throw a victory salute to the photag? Go ahead. Most of the time they happen too suddenly to make a claim whilst going down. Despite the speed at which you go from surfer to wiper, you still have to do a coupla quick things in that instant. Makes all the difference between a happy tumble and a panicky pummeling. Your board goes from best friend to worst enemy the minute the two of you part ways. Try get away from it. Otherwise it has a nasty habit of pinging itself into your head. Which hurts. As you start to fall - try give it a kick away from you. Voetsak! Fall backwards and push ya board forwards is the way to go. Never go in head-first if you can help it, as it's a good way to bust your neck. Feet or butt first is the best way to go. If you've got some padding on the rear - may as well use it. Think bomb-drop position. Harder to twist an ass than an ankle. Jumping backwards into the whitewash can also give you a bit of a cushion. Don't, repeat don't, dive forwards into the trough. That is a very kak place to be. Into the wave face itself is OK, there's still water there, but down the bottom in the hollow of the wave....uh-uh, asking for trouble. Take a breath. Sounds simple. Just don't forget to do it. Getting held down by a big 'un is a lot less fun if you're doing it on anything short of a full lungful. The average person can hold their breath comfortably for 30 seconds, not many wipeouts in our part of the world will hold you down for anything near that. Cover your pip. Hands and arms become an instant Gath helmet for your head. Protects you from the reef and your board - both of which are just frothing to cause you damage. The consequences of hitting the reef with your head are never good. Had an Aussie mate who crashed into the reef at GLand, took his scalp off and cracked his skull open so you could see his brain peeking through the hole. Luckily got medivac'ed by chopper out to Singapore and spent a month in ICU. He lived to tell the tale. And pay the bill. Unluckily didn't have travel insurance and cost him a cool $250k (Moral of the story: always always always have travel insurance if you're going on a surf trip) Don't panic. It wastes energy, which uses oxygen, which means you run outta air quicker. Relax, lie back, enjoy the beating. Take your mind to a happy place. Don't try and be in control cos you are not. Come to terms with that. Count slowly if you're someone who panics about running outta breath. Most of the time you'll pop up before 10. Remember you can get to 30 easily. Holding your breath is as much mental as it is physical. Remember - when that sensation of "I have to breathe RIGHT now" sets in - guess what - your body's just giving you an early warning signal - you can actually hang on for at least another 15 seconds. So don't gulp yet! On the howling offshore days it's worth staying under water an extra few seconds after wiping out. Listen for that thwack as your board hits the water. Cos it's a helluva lot better than popping up and having it thwack your head. Can't tell you how many times I've seen guys heads pop up and the board is flying back at them like a missile in the wind and misses their pip by inches. Good idea to come up with your hand over your head too - rather have board hit hand than head.
Wipeouts are often more psychological than physical. So get your mind right about the time you'll spend in the rinse and spin cycle and you'll start to enjoy it, not fear it. You can even Frogger it, like Pipe local Casey.... They're dropping like flies. Just last year alone 3 surf mags I used to read bit the dust. They were great mags. Good editorial backed up with solid images. Yet they've folded. RIP Transworld Surf (USA), Surfers Path (UK) and Waves (Aus). Local mags The Bombsurf and African Soul Surfer suffered similar fates a few years earlier. The death of print media has been prophesied since the advent of online content. It's all about the here and now, no-one wants to wait a month to see stuff in print. But you should. It's better. So much better. Anyone can publish anything on the net anytime. But to make it into a mag images and stories have had to survive the editorial cut. Which means someone in a lil office somewhere has sweated away in an effort to sift through all the information overload to bring you something really unique and interesting - whether it be images that will blow your mind or stories that'll inspire you to travel.
At least Transworld Surf kept their wacky brand of humour right up til the end - here's the cover of the last mag they produced.
Some really decent surf poured into the bay on Thursday. And as always is the case with solid days, there's often as much action on the sidelines as there is in the surf. You know it's gonna be a good day when a giraffe washes up on the beach! Shooting Clubhouse mid-morning after an early Millers sesh (good size, but waaay too much chop). Next thing this ballie walks down towards the edge of the Avo's rock with his goggles & snorkel on. For a terrifying minute I thought he was gonna wade in next to the rock - and then get sucked out in a second. Sent John down to tune him, but turns out the ou was just gonna get into the rock pool. There he lay for a coupla minutes getting washed about by the surge that flushed into it from the gap between the rocks. Done with getting sand into every orifice he owned, he then parked off in the shorey doing some karate. So lekker to see ballies still stoked on life. Loving it! The early morning sessions were plagued by heavy cross chop. Such a pity cos reckon the swell was at it's biggest then. Rincon was breaking halfway to the horizon. Back of Pipe had some good one's. Specially if you went left, away from the wind. Glad to see some guy read the paddling article! Here he is busting out some push-ups on the beach! Don;t wanna paddle like a poepal? Check out the blog post then. Big surf always means you get to collect a few on the head for your troubles. Think this is Andre about to wear one square on the pip. It was one of those days for him. Every single one he took off on he got axed. He got so gatvol of his board in the end that he jumped off after the take-off and decided to do some barefoot surfing instead! Credit to him he still walked up the beach smiling! When the surfs pumping it's so easy to over-froth. Like these 2 lighties below. They were so amped to get out there that they sprinted off the beach and into the water at full tilt - either not knowing, or not remembering, that there was some lovely sharp reef hidden below the surface. They went from 100km/h to a dead halt as those feet suddenly went from soft sand to sharp rock. Too funny to watch. PE doesn't get surf all to often, so there were plenty peeps in the line-up. Thick crowds meant a few near misses, a couple classic T-bones (no-one got injured amazingly, in the one's that I saw), and lots of family waves. The surf was so hectic it even pulled Barry's bootie off! Well, not quite. Barry's just a one-bootie man. "Don't leave til you have a good shot of me!" Gregg jokingly called out as he jogged past on his way out to the surf. This was his first wave....I think it was a good shot! Long time Millers local JP Degoumois is testimony to the fact that when you're good, you stay good, even when you hit middle age. He pulled off some ridiculously critical turns out there. Just bummed I didn't get any good shots of them. Easily still one of the top surfers in PE. On good days - there're just as many good wipeouts as good waves. Think that this one captured by Dirk Erasmus at Pipe takes the cake. That expression says it all! And if PE cooked, you know JBay fired. The day dawned with a spectacular sunrise, and some pretty darn spectacular lines pouring down the point. Early birds definitely got some worms. There was so much surf on offer that Luc took a break from shooting the surfing action and got some arty shots of the pipe at Pipe. Rincon delivered. Although you had to have had a few Red Bulls to make it out to the back. It was solid. Never too many shots from there cos it breaks so far out and the ou's look like ants. Dave got a lil clip on his phone which shows just how solid it was. Free bonus segment of random sky shots as Dave has a shaky moment.... Post by David Lipschitz. Check out all Thursday's photo galleries from PE & JBay in Latest Shots.
Let's be honest, surfing carries with it some really unique ailments. We get weird sh*t happening to us that certainly doesn't happen to the rest of the population. Let's start with the obvious. Sinus drain. Yeh, just gotto love that. What happens when you wipe out is water flushes it's way up your nose and into your sinuses. There's plenty space back there, and cos some of the cavities are below the level of your nose it means once it gets in there, it stays put as long as you're upright. Just waiting til later that day or the next when you bend forward and force that water upward....and out.... Generally happens at exactly the worst moment, like leaning over your colleagues desk or something. Next minute a whole lotta gunk comes pouring out your nose. Lovely, ain't it? Just tell 'em it's seawater not snot... At least nose drips have humour value. Nothing funny about Surfer's Ear. It's proper name is Exostosis, which is the medical term for an abnormal growth of bone inside the ear canal. It occurs cos of frequent exposure to cold water and/or wind, which causes the bone surrounding the ear canal to thicken and constrict the canal. No-one really knows why cold temps causes a bony growth to develop, but it's thought to be an evolutionary defense mechanism. Basically, your body reacts to the cold by growing a protective layer of bone around the ear canal to stop cold water/wind from entering it. The bony growth can trap water, ear wax and other crap within the ear canal, and you end up with repeated ear infections. No fun in that. As it gets worse, it ends up affecting your hearing too. So if you're finding it hard to follow the chatter in the line-up or you're finding water is always getting stuck in your ears, go get em checked. It mostly affects only one ear. And if you're wondering why that is...it'll generally be the ear that faces into the prevailing wind direction that's offshore at your local break. And hey, PE's not called the windy city for nothing....so we may not have the cold water as a factor, but the wind chill sure is. The hectic thing about Surfers Ear is the treatment. They drill that bony growth out. Yip, some ou sticks a drill into your ear and goes zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz. Actually, things have improved a bit these days, and some doc's go in from a cut behind your ear. But either way - you're outta the water for at least 6 weeks. Best ways to prevent it are to keep those ears happy - so either chuck some earplugs or prestik in there, or wear your hoodie. That's why you'll always see me in my squid lid.... look like a dork, but no-one's gonna have to drill my ears. Not sure how many people have had this next weird one. But I did ask around a bit in the lineup to make sure it wasn't just me! Turns out not. When the waters really cold, my lil finger goes AWOL after a while. It just sticks out to the side, and no matter how hard I try to bring it back next to my ring finger it ain't interested. Stays stuck out there like a Teaspoon Tips ad. It's the oddest thing to sit there and stare at your hand and just will that pinkie to move back to where it should be, but it won't move. I can't work out the mechanism behind it, despite dredging up my anatomy memory bank from 20 years ago at varsity. Best guess is it's either a cramp in the abductor digiti minimi, which is the hands most superficial muscle (and the guy responsible for making the lil finger go outwards), or it's some sort of temporary nerve paralysis of branch of the ulna nerve which gets knocked out by the cold and stops working, and in the process stops working the lil muscle whose job it is to keep Mr Pinky in place. Anyone else have a theory on this? The cold doesn't just make the pinky misbehave. It can turn your hands into useless stumps. Come out of a mid-winter sesh, fumble to get your key, and then try unlock your car door. And hope no-one is watching. Cos you stand there like a muppet trying to rotate your whole upper body just to get the damn key to turn cos your stupid hands refuse to turn it! I'll admit to having to accost random people in the car park at Hummies and asking them to unlock my door for me. They look at you like you're nuts! The refusal of your hands to operate in a sensible manner might be due to low-grade hypothermia. The body reacts to being a a really cold environment by prioritizing where the blood should go to keep you ticking. This means blood gets redirected to your core whilst your extremities are treated as being expendable in the bigger scheme of things. Getting less blood makes your hands not only cold, but also impairs the ability of the muscles in that area - so goodbye dexterity, hello lobster claws. Speaking of cold, ice-cream headaches anyone? if you aren't a dedicated hoodie wearer then you've certainly had a few of these every winter. Generally hit you on that 3rd duckdive in a row. Feels like someone has thrown liquid nitrogen over your head and it's about to explode. Wonder why it's worse when you're paddling back out versus just wiping out? Wind chill! Expose that freshly dunked pip to the icy breeze and boom, brain-busting pain engulfs you. A quick anatomy lesson - your blood vessels expand and collapse in response to your bodies temperature, and the environmental temperature. Your bod is a happy camper wrapped up in it's layer of neoprene, to the point that you might actually be getting a bit hot in there when you're paddling your gat off to get back out to the line-up. Your pip becomes a way your body can regulate some of that heat, so the blood vessels up there expand to allow you to cool down a bit. So far so good. Until you duck-dive and stick that pip with it's nicely expanded blood vessels into the vrek-cold water. Funny enough it's still feeling OK. BUT. Then you surface. As your head emerges from the water the wind hits. Welcome to a world of pain. Your heads gone from trying to help you blow off extra heat to suddenly thinking it's in the Antarctic cos of the wind chill. So now the blood vessels go from being wide open, to trying to shut down shop as quick as they can to prevent heat loss. It's called vasospasm, and it hurts like hell. Don't like em? No choice but to stick a hoodie on. Not all weird surf ailments are cold-water related. Sometimes it's long summer sessions that get us too. Summer water temps mean no wetties, which translates into no nice rubber protection between you and your board. For guys who're stacking up multiple daily sessions this could end up giving them what known as surf bumps. Those funny growths on your body that grow to protect some place where a lot of unusual pressure takes place. Mostly on the rib cage, but it can be the knees or feet to for those longboarders into knee-paddling. They're fibrous half-domed lumps of thickened skin and overgrown connective tissue caused by the friction and pressure of paddling a surfboard. Cos let's face it. Lying on your board isn't as comfy as lying on your couch, and your body thinks so too and reacts accordingly. Wettie and boardie tans make spotting a surfer dead easy. Either brown from the knee's down. Or nice lil brown ring around the neck and some brown hands stuck on the end of lily-white arms. Funny how most of us are good at putting sun screen on our faces, but the hands & neck are just get left to fry. And long-session induced neck rashes thanks to your wetsuit neck rubbing it raw leave you looking like someone into S&M. Remember to vaseline that neckline if you don't want to be getting funny looks. Unless you gonna hide it by wearing a poloneck for a coupla days... So there you have it, some weird stuff surfers get. You can't call yourself a surfer til you've had at least one of these!
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AuthorMillerslocal Archives
July 2021
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